Happy-savory Thanksgiving: How to achieve succulent, crisp-skinned, dry-brined turkey and all the umami-ful sides
By Leslie Brenner
Most days of the year, I’m a culinary adventurer. But when it comes to Thanksgiving, I always want to eat the same things. A succulent, easy-to-achieve dry-brined turkey (usually with a really good Cognac sauce, but some years with a traditional American gravy). A rich and luscious sweet-potato gratin that adds cream and herbs to the naturally sweet spuds, but no added sugar. A Brussels sprouts dish with pancetta and mirepoix from Chez Panisse Cooking that I’ve made every Thanksgiving for decades. Chestnut-porcini stuffing.
And the pie? Pumpkin, without a doubt.
This story sticks with the savory parts of the extravaganza. (As far as I’m concerned, the recipes you find on bags of fresh cranberries are good as any, and after a lifetime cooking Thanksgiving, I’m still tinkering with my pie!)
For my money (and time) dry-brining (also known as applying a salt-rub is the way to go with the bird. It results in the closest thing you can get to evenly cooked dark and white meat without dismantling the bird before roasting; it’s always juicy, flavorful, crisp-skinned and fabulous; and it’s way neater and easier than wrestling with (and storing) a vat of salt brine.
You’ll want to get the salt on the turkey on Monday to roast turkey on Thursday, which means you might want to pick up your bird today — Sunday. This year I’m including two recipes: one for an 11-to-16-pound bird, and another for a smaller turkey, 8 to 11 pounds. The recipe for the larger bird also includes instructions for a really good Cognac sauce; feel free to use that even if you opt for a smaller bird. Or of course you can use the drippings to make traditional gravy instead.
Our menu is à la carte, so pick and choose what sounds good!
Leslie’s Thanksgiving Menu
Crudités with Red Pepper-Harissa Dip
Crispy-Skinned, Succulent Dry-Brined Turkey with Really Good Cognac Sauce
Brussels Sprouts Leaves with Mirepoix and Pancetta
Sweet Potato Gratin with Sage-Butter and Thyme
Relish Tray
Cranberry Sauce with Black Pepper and Orange
Pumpkin Pie
Dry-Brined Turkey with or without Really Good Cognac Sauce
The first recipe is is for an 11-16-pound bird. If you want to do a smaller bird than that, use the second recipe.
Chestnut-Porcini Stuffing
This stuffing is very savory, with lots of celery and herbs. If you don’t want to roast your own chestnuts (a bit of a pain when you have 9,000 other things to prepare), buy the pre-cooked and peeled ones you can sometimes find in sealed bags or jars.
Brussels Sprouts Leaves with Mirepoix and Pancetta
I’ve been making this fabulous Paul Bertolli dish from Chez Panisse Cooking since way before Brussels sprouts were fashionable — and it’s still one of my favorite ways to eat them. Thanksgiving wouldn’t be Thanksgiving at our house without it. It’s a bit of a pain because you have to take all the leaves off each sprout, but to me it’s totally worth it. You can do all the time-consuming parts in advance (even the day before): prep the sprouts and cut up the mirepoix and pancetta. Store them in zipper bags in the fridge till you’re ready to cook.
Sweet Potato Gratin with Sage-Butter and Thyme
For most Thanksgivings over the last couple of decades, I made a recipe created by Regina Schrambling for The Los Angeles Times; we published it back when I ran that Food section. Last year I turned it on its head — arranging slices of potato hasselback-style, instead of layering them like scalloped potatoes — and I loved the result.
For the relish tray, I cut up celery and carrots into sticks (including inner celery pieces with lots of leaaves), and arrange them on a tray with whole radishes and large black and green Cerignola olives.
OK, that should keep you busy for now. Happy cooking!
RECIPE: Dry-Brined Turkey with Really Good Cognac Sauce
RECIPE: Smaller Dry-Brined Turkey
RECIPE: Chestnut-Porcini Dressing