By Leslie Brenner
In Italy, lentils — which represent abundance and good fortune — are traditionally eaten on New Year’s day. This Umbrian recipe — adapted from Jody Williams and Rita Sodi’s Via Carota cookbook — pairs them with lacinato kale (also known as Tuscan or dinosaur kale).
A generous cupful of diced pancetta gives the dish extravagant richness; the resulting dish is soulful, deep and makes your kitchen smell wonderful. Feel free to use less pancetta if that feels like a lot (half of that would still be great.) In fact, the recipe is extremely adaptable. Want to make it vegan? Just leave out the pancetta altogether. Want more greens? Go ahead and double the kale. Have a turnip in that produce bin? Dice it up and throw it in with the carrots and onion. In any case, it will be delicious.
Umbrian lentils or French green lentils both work well for the dish — and its appeal and good luck don’t expire after the holiday.