Choux Farcis (Stuffed Cabbage)

Rosa Jackson, from whose cookbook Niçoise this recipe is adapted, attributes it to her friend and fellow cooking teacher Hélène Albou. The method and filling are both outstanding, but what really makes the recipe special is it’s brilliant Quick Tomato Sauce. The sauce is ridiculously quick and easy to make, and we’re now using it for all kinds of things, swapping the dried oregano to marjoram or fresh basil, as Jackson’s original recipe suggests for different dishes. (It’s wonderful with these Lamb Meatballs in place of the sauce in the recipe.)

READ: The south of France shimmers and delights in the engaging cookbook ‘Niçoise’ — until it doesn’t

Note: Jackson’s original recipe calls for a Savoy cabbage that weighs 2 1/4 pounds / 1 kg. The one we used wasn’t nearly so large; it weighed 1 pound 9 ounces / 724 grams. We’re calling for one just a little larger here, so you have some wiggle room with the cabbage leaves. But you could even be OK with one that’s closer to a pound and a half.

If you have any leftover stuffed cabbage, it can be reheated in a frying pan on the stovetop in a little water, or in the leftover tomato sauce, with a little extra water added.

Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 Savoy cabbage (about 1 3/4 pounds / 800 grams)

Sea salt

1/4 cup / 50 grams long-grain white rice

1 cup / 20 grams Italian parsley leaves (it’s OK to include some fine stems)

1 medium onion, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2/3 cup / 50 grams freshly grated Parmesan

11 ounces / 300 grams sweet Italian sausage meat

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1/4 cup / 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking pan

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup / 120 ml water, if necessary

For the tomato sauce

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 teaspoon chile flakes

Sea salt

2 cups / 480 ml store-bought passata (Italian strained tomatoes)

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

Instructions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Remove the core from the cabbage and separate the leaves; wash any dirt from the outer leaves. Reserve the 12 largest leaves to stuff, and heal all the inside leaves together. Prepare a large bowl of ice water.

2. When the water reaches a boil, salt it generously (as for pasta). Add the 12 large cabbage leaves, and once the water returns to a boil, boil the leaves for 3 more minutes. Using tongs, transfer the blanched leaves to the ice water. After 1 minute, remove the cabbage leaves, drain them well in a colander, and spread them out in one layer on a large dish towel.

3. Add the remaining cabbage leaves to the boiling water, and once the water returns to the boil, let them boil 4 minutes. Refresh in the ice water and drain as for the outer leaves. Once the inner leaves have cooled, squeeze them with your hands to remove most of the water (you don’t have to remove every drop) and set aside.

4. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and salt it lightly. Add the rice and cook for 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

5. Heat the oven to 375 F / 190 C. Finely chop the leaves for the stuffing, as well as the parsley. Place them in a large bowl and add the onion, garlic, Parmesan, rice, sausage meat, egg, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt (or more or less depending on the saltiness of your sausage) and a few grinds of black pepper. Use your hands to mix well, until you can form a ball with the mixture.

6. Oil a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking pan. Divide the stuffing among the 12 leaves, shaping it into an oval at the bottom of each leaf. You might find it helpful to use a 1/3-cup (80 ml) measure to divide the filling. Fold the bottom of each leaf up over the stuffing, then fold over the sides and roll up. Repeat with all the leaves. Arrange them seam-side down in the baking pan, fitting them snugly together. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.

7. Bake for 45 minutes, or until beautifully browned. Check that there are still some juices in the pan after 30 minutes; if not, add the water. When they’re done, baste the stuffed cabbage with the cooking juices, turn off the oven, and leave it in the oven for another 15 minutes.

8. While the stuffed cabbage is baking, make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan or sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and chile flakes, along with a pinch of salt, and cook for 1 or 2 minutes, until the garlic starts to turn golden around the edges. Add the passata and oregano and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and remove from the heat.

9. To serve, divide the tomato sauce evenly among four shallow bowls, and top with the stuffed cabbage.