Shiitake-Cauliflower Steamed Rice Rolls (Bánh Cuốn Chay)

These Vietnamese rolls — adapted from Andrea Nguyen’s Ever-Green Vietnamese — may seem ambitious, but they’re fun to make, a great project for a Saturday afternoon. And after you make them once, you’ll “get it,” and next time will be easy. Nguyen holds your hand the whole way through, which is why the recipe’s a bit long. You can also watch a how-to video at her website, Viet World Kitchen.

READ: Cookbooks We Love: Vegetables are the stars of Andrea Nguyen’s ‘Ever-Green Vietnamese’

In her headnote, Nguyen compares the rolls to Chinese cheung fan rice-noodle rolls (sometimes called “fun” rolls). Bánh cuốn, she writes, “are more delicate, served warm or at room temperature and eaten with nuoc cham, fried shallot, herbs, cucumber and blanched bean sprouts.” She also explains that traditionally, the rather involved cooking process wasn’t usually attempted at home, as it involved making rice sheets. Recently, though, clever cooks in Vietnam and elsewhere have figured out how to use easy-to-purchase rice paper (steamed rice sheets that have been dried), soaking them to rehydrate and roll, and then briefly steaming or microwaving them.

In her book — which you really must buy if you like this recipe — Nguyen gives directions for both. We tested her recipe for this review using the steaming method, so that’s what we’re offering here. You can use a Chinese steamer or a large pot with a collapsible metal steamer basket. We jerry-rigged something a little different; we used a wok with a small dumpling steamer basket set inside, water added, and a plate perched atop the basket. A large wok lid kept all the steam inside.

Nguyen’s original recipe calls for 24 rice papers; we ran out of filling after 18, using approximately 2 tablespoons of filling in each as Nguyen instructs, so we’re giving a range as a yield.

You can use store-bought fried shallots (available in Asian supermarkets), or make your own; we really enjoyed making them, and if you do, you can use the oil flavored by frying them to brush on the rolls. Make the oil while the mushrooms are soaking.

Note: The instructions call for using a non-stick skillet to cook the aromatic vegetables for the filling. If you prefer, you can use a stainless steel skillet, but the ingredients may stick a little.

Makes 6 servings (about 18 - 24 rolls).

Ingredients

For the shiitake-cauliflower filling

1 1/2 ounces / 43 grams dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in water to cover for 6 hours

3/4 cup / 100 grams small-diced carrots

2 1/2 cups / 264 grams fresh cauliflower rice or crumbles

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or peanut), plus more as needed

1/2 cup / 60 grams chopped shallots or yellow onion

1/2 cup / 36 grams chopped scallions, green and white parts

MSG or Asian mushroom seasoning for flavoring (optional, for umami sparkle)

For the rolls

18 - 24 (22-cm-diameter) sturdy rice papers, preferably Three Ladies or Tufoco Bamboo Tree brand)

About 3 tablespoons shallot oil from making Fast-Fried Shallots (below), or neutral oil

8 ounces / 227 grams Persian or English cucumber

A couple pinches salt

1 pinch sugar

1 big handful of hand-torn or coarsely chopped mixed herbs, such as cilantro and mint

1 batch Fast-Fried Shallots (recipe below) or 1/3 cup / 34 grams store-bought fried shallots or onions

3/4 cup / 177 ml nuoc cham

Instructions

1. Prepare the shiitake-cauliflower filling: Squeeze the shiitakes to remove excess liquid (save the soaking water for another use). Finely chop the caps and stems and then place in a bowl. Add the carrot and cauliflower; season with the salt, pepper, sugar and fish sauce; and stir to combine. Set near the stove.

2. Set a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the neutral oil. When the oil barely ripples, add the shallots and cook, stirring, for 2 to 4 minutes, until fragrant, with many browned pieces. Dump in the mushroom mixture and cook, stirring often, about 5 minutes, until the cauliflower and carrot are tender. Add the green onions, and when they soften, remove the pan from the heat. Let rest for 5 minutes, taste, and if additional savoriness is needed, season with MSG or salt. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, partially cover, and let cool to room temperature.

3. Next you’ll soak the rice papers — in three batches, to avoid a sticky pile of them. In a deep skillet, roasting pan or similar vessel that is wider than the rice paper, add room temperature water to a depth of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Working with 8 rice papers per batch, slide each one into the water, making sure it’s wet on both sides and fully submerged before adding the next. Let the papers soften for about 10 minutes, until they turn supple, slippery and gelatinous-feeling. Meanwhile, select six plates that fit inside your steamer, and brush them with a little of the shallot oil or neutral oil.

4. Now the rolling! When the rice papers are finished soaking, using your hands, gently separate them, keeping them in the soaking vessel (water loosens them, so keep them submerged). They’ll look like floating tissues. Using both hands, retrieve a rice paper and place it on a rimmed baking sheet, the longer side parallel to you (the rice-paper round will have morphed into an oval). Place 2 tablespoons filling below the midline, spreading it out to span 6 inches wide. Fold in the side flaps to keep things in place. Bring up the bottom flap to cover the filling, then fold and roll upward to close. It’s okay if it’s not perfect; cooking rids imperfections, including small holes or tears. Place on a prepared plate. Repeate to fill 7 more rolls. When done, repeat the whole process to make the rest of the rolls.

5. Brush the top and ends of the rolls with the remaining shallot oil.

6. If you’re using a pot and collapsible steamer setup, fill the pot with a generous 1/2 inch of water (if using a Chinese steamer or wok setup, fill the bottom pot or the wok with about 2 inches of water). Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to steady the steam. Add a plate of rolls, cover and steam for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, until the rolls turn translucent, soft and slightly sticky. Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes. (Loosely cover them to keep them soft for up to 1 hour.)

7. Prepare the cucumber accompaniment: Halve the cucumber(s) lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and thinly slice on the diagonal. Put the slices in a bowl and season with the salt and sugar. Add the herbs, reserving a few for garnish, and stir gently to combine. Place a small pile of the cucumbers on each bánh cuốn plate. Shower fried shallots and a few herbs on the rolls, and present with a bowl of the nuoc cham.

8. Here’s how to eat them: Serve with spoons and chopsticks (or forks). Drizzle some sauce over the bánh cuốn. Cut a section of the roll with a spoon, then use a two-handed approach to gather up the section plus stray shallot bits. The herb salad refreshes with green flavors and crunch, so add a bit to each bite.