Shrimp, Andouille Sausage and Okra Gumbo

The recipe is very loose and forgiving, as gumbos are meant to be, but it does rely on good technique: making a proper roux, which requires patience and time, and using a good stock; in this case, shrimp stock. It was included in our September 2020 story about okra.

If you like the dish, you’ll want to keep a supply of shrimp shells on hand for that stock. That’s why whenever we buy shrimp to use in recipes, we buy them shell-on, and stash the shells in a zipper bag in the freezer. The stock — which also includes dried shrimp — is easy to make, only takes about 35 minutes, and makes a world of difference flavor-wise in a gumbo. (See the headnote in the stock recipe following the gumbo recipe for where to buy dried shrimp.) Other fish stocks would work fine, as well. You could substitute equal parts clam juice and water, or chicken broth, but it’s not quite the same.

Add more or less shrimp, andouille or okra to your liking, or make it spicier or brothier; you sort of can’t go wrong. Traditionally gumbo is served with white rice, but lately we’ve been enjoying it with brown rice as a healthier alternative.

Roasting the okra before adding it to the gumbo results in gumbo that’s not slimy.

Serves 6.

Ingredients

12 ounces okra, sliced 1/2 inch thick

2 teaspoons olive oil

Salt

1/3 cup canola or vegetable oil

1/3 cup flour

2 celery stalks, diced

1 medium onion, diced (about 1 cup)

1/2 cup sliced scallions (white and green part, about 4 scallions)

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 green bell pepper, diced

1 serrano chile or 1/2 habanero, stemmed, seeded and chopped fine

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme (or 4 branches fresh thyme)

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano (or about a teaspoon of fresh oregano leaves, chopped)

3 bay leaves

3 1/2 cups shrimp stock (see recipe below)

11 or 12 ounces smoked andouille sausage, sliced 1/4 inch thick

1 1/2 pounds shrimp, shelled and deveined (reserve the shells for stock, recipe below)

Cooked white rice or brown rice for serving

File powder and Louisiana hot sauce for serving (optional)

Instructions

1. To roast the okra, heat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the okra, either in a medium bowl or directly on a baking sheet, in the olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Roast for about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

2. Make a roux: Heat the canola oil in a Dutch oven or a heavy-bottomed soup pot over high heat until it is hot but not quite smoking. Sprinkle on the flower, whisking as you sprinkle, and whisk till it’s all incorporated and smooth. Reduce the heat to low and cook the roux, whisking frequently, for 25 to 30 minutes; it will be the color of coffee with a little milk in it.

3. Place the shrimp stock in a saucepan and heat it over high heat to a boil, then reduce heat to low to keep it warm.

3. Increase the heat to medium, add the celery and onion to the roux and stir to coat. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then stir in the scallions, garlic, green bell pepper, serrano or habanero, white pepper, black pepper, cayenne, thyme, oregano, bay leaves and 1 1/4 teaspoon salt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes.

4. Gradually whisk in the broth, raise heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until the saucy broth is the consistency you like. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add the andouille sausages, the shrimp and okra and stir to combine. Cook just until the shrimp are cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes, depending on their size.

5. Serve in bowls with the rice, passing file powder and hot sauce to sprinkle on.

Shrimp Stock for Gumbo

This recipe calls for dried shrimp; we have used River Road brand from Louisiana, as well as dried shrimp from Thailand picked up in Asian supermarkets (we always look for those without preservatives). Both work fine.

Makes about 3 1/2 cups stock.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

Shells from 1 1/2 pounds shrimp

3/4 to 1 ounce dried shrimp

2 bay leaves

3 thyme branches

3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

The top (green) part of a leek, roughly chopped, or half an onion, roughly chopped

7 cups water

Instructions

1. Heat the olive oil in a stockpot over medium heat. Add the shrimp shells, dried shrimp, bay leaves, thyme and garlic, stir to coat with the hot oil and let cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 or 4 minutes. Add the leek tops or chopped onion and the water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Strain into a clean bowl or pot (you’ll be reheating it to use in the gumbo), pressing on the solids to extract all the stock. Measure the stock: If you have less than 3 1/2 cups, add enough water to yield that.